Category: 2018 Camino

Najere was a changed resting place

I knew after two days of over 30 kilometres that perhaps I may fail on this so the picturesque hotel was so welcome.  Cascading white flowers fell from the old brickwork facade but I couldn’t speak to the receptionist. She was busy as we all hovered at the desk just desperate to sit down. Floor 3 but there was a lift. There was WiFi and breakfast was in the lodging. No dinner of course but this was becoming usual. It didn’t matter because the Rioja was good….even though it was served cold.

Small pleasures at Breakfast.

Breakfast was in the basement from 7.30 but at 7.20 I ventured down and was greeted by the lady who had signed us in. She spoke no English but wore a ‘T’ shirt that said on the back…’Life is easy because I am cool’

I wasn’t so sure about that but she had such prise in showing me the fresh orange squeezing machine, the automatic coffee contraption….and Lo and behold…instead of ONLY offering plastic cheese and Serrano ham…there was smoked salmon and tomatoes, and every bread imaginable that wasn’t in a plastic wrapper. All the plates and cups where china with a sweet floral design. I was in heaven again. So I left  Najere with a smile on my face and the promise of a SHORTER day!!

Santa Domingo to Belorado

Gosh If I am tired and make mistakes please forgive me. The routine and continuous journey seems to make everything swim. Speaking of which, when the day has finished and you check in and collapse on the bed, you open your eyes and look up at the ceiling. It goes in and out like a kaleidoscope for a while.  So bizarre but I think its because the road you travel is mostly a stony track with small stones and bigger boulders. So your head is down most of the time before you look up. It’s almost dizzying.  You may think that it’ s  unnecessary but if your foot hits a stone and twists or the camba  of the pathway changes …it is so difficult . So when you arrive your vision is going in and out because the pathway is still in your brain.

Naturally I was on the third floor in Santa Domingo del Calzade but who cared because there was a lift!! There was no restaurant of course so after all the recuperation ablutions, washed and changed, I sauntered out. It was only 50 yards away but a bar beckoned with its cream parasols and a fountain in the middle. Here was fine place to recuperate and write. I looked up at the fountain. It was concrete and some sort of phallic shape dripped into a scallop shell…but no matter ..I was sat down and the olives were coming and the massive G&T went down like silk.  Not so much the meal.  Paul and Fiona had booked evening meals everywhere so I just tagged along and paid my 11/12 euros….But we were so hungry. Dinner was 7.30 but I thought it would be a good a idea to go early and wait outside!!! It’s just not the Spanish way. I think I was eating the walls when the poor girl arrived, I even switched on the lights for her and gave out the bread. Bread takes on a whole new meaning on this marathon of marathons.

You have a choice of the pilgrim menu and unlike me I had a first course of pasta, followed by fish and creme caramel. It didn’t matter…I was eating…tomorrow was another day. Sleep or being in bed for more than 8 hours is bliss.