Author: admin

Cow corn is so much taller and reddish on the stems and here was me thinking it was sweet corn. It was a bit of a revelation about the sunflower fields that were left unharvested but cow corn? Apparently they have to be left to dry out and then gathered as cattle food?

I know nothing!!

I have to say that on this day I was shocked to be so far out of town…5 miles is a lot out here but all I could think of was getting this supposed taxi and saying, Primero…Farmacia!!  My head contemplated all the negatives…but what the Camino has taught me…or being by myself on this journey…is…if it is what you need to do…you DO IT!.

Gosh I knew this would be a long day..over 34 Kilometers so after the usual remonstrations abouta picnic breakfast…or not …and an early taxi…I rush out into the darkness…or try to!! I reach the big outer ranch door. I can’t see in the dark…there is no key to these things and several bolts and locks. I nearly get beside myself because the place is deserted. Its no good shouting ‘Hola’…nobody is around and my mind fills with images of the giant cook dressed in black and smoking…saying,

”6.30 only!! NO EARLIER..it is night…do not work!!”

After switching my torch on I get the bolting system sorted and fly into the empty dark courtyard clutching my room key with the usual HUGE wooden block attached to it in case you steal it??? Go figure….actually this one was leather!

He’s THERE!!! My taxi…I fly over forgetting I have the darn key. The car is rumbling and idle as his engine turns over…calm as you like…I fling the key on one of the bolts and gladly jump into a strange car, with a strange man, into the darkness and hurriedly say…El Camin por  Favor?

We are off and I have been told that my venue for that night has been changed to somewhere in town….Oh God…will my bag get there?

Its quite a good system really…rather like someone in a concentration camp, you have a number….mine is 5069B….your label is on the case…so some little company with a white van goes round and ticks off your case..picks it up and knows where to deliver it…Cool or what..? EXCEPT I am somewhere different!!? Will it get there?

My fears are a waste of time, as my taxi man smiles benignly and drops me off on the Camino. As I exit, I think,

”What a nice man!!!”

Its SO black outside of town and it’s about 6.45am so daylight is not for another hour and a half.

I cross the bridge….a little one, not the huge one in the town and hear,

”Christmas Carol!  There she is, Diane the Canadian 5 foot tall trouper. I laugh and we set off together…so much safer in the company of two in the dark.

I meet a stone pilgrim on the way at a village crossing and Diane insists on taking my picture…but I look a sorry sight at the minute.

Diane loves the Autumn as she kicks up all the fallen leaves. The trail is busier now and I see coaches stopping and letting walkers off to do the last 5 days. There is a lot of conversation about this because to have walked from St Jean Pied de Port for over 30 days is not the same thing. There have been the purists on this trip…like the man who was disgusted at anyone wearing a head torch in the pitch blackness instead of being guided by the light of the moon???

I have been lucky to have had a bright but waning moon for the last week but what if it had been cloudy or no moon? There was a lady who thought we were judgemental when we said that it should be a different certificate if you had done 800K and not 100K…and those that think you have wasted your time if you didn’t enter every church and pray?

Actually on this day I did enter a tiny chapel and typically it was so embellished it took your breath away. So I pay my money and light a REAL candle for my mum and everyone. I took a picture and said to my mum,

”Look, mum, I have lit one for you and everyone, its not in the regular place but I have put it right at the bottom for you because I know you would prefer that”

I get to Arzua, a small town that looks modern when you enter it, but it is busy and thriving. I drag myself to Bar Luis…and the girl says,

“Oh its not here your room is 3 minutes away”

She laughs at my expression and says,

”Here is a cold water and I will take you in the car”

It was so beautiful and private….and my bag was there!! I wash and spray and debug whatever I can find and rush off into the town to meet a few of us for and early supper….we have nearly DONE IT!!!

Early the next morning, there is only me at breakfast, and the buxom lady fusses over me and makes me a lovely coffee. She asks was everything alright and beams when I tell her it was beautiful. She is so house proud.

When its time to go she takes me to the door, points out the way and blesses me.

I just look into her face, its full of warmth and love, and I will never forget that moment. I trudge out into the darkness and spill yet another tear!