The owner of the hostel reminded me of the big man in Allo Allo without a Pinny. He officiated all evening dodging from the small reception desk in the corner to the bar. Breakfast was early at 6.45-7am so I was thrilled. When I went into breakfast, he was there!!!
And he was wearing a Pinny and fussing over everybody. I could have laughed out loud but I didn’t dare because I had the trail to face…aaah! He was so lovely but the breakfast was lack lustre sadly. Huge croissant but in cellophane wrappers, I hate food in cellophane wrappers…but you know if you are hungry don’t you eat anything?…processed cheese and ham slices that looked like pale rubber tiles you put on the floor. I tried a coffee but only a slurp as it had been brewed in the pot…how fussy and how far have we come. It didn’t stop him beaming at me and saying “Hola”. I was tempted to answer back,
”Hola, Hola!!”?…Allo Allo….but I didn’’t.
The path was flat and gravelly and by the time I got to Legados, a small village, they all are small..I was ready for a coffee. The only things open were 2 small bars on different corners with the odd workman having his coffee and brandy before work… so I walked on.
Just before the next stop which I had read was called Terradillos de Los Templarios…sounded terrifying. No matter, I came across a beautiful sweeping lawn and garden, an auberge with huge wooden doors called the auberge of the Templars!!! I was made. The stout man met me and said,
”Non, non!” I look perplexed. “ I bleat that I would just be happy with a coffee.
”OH cafe…Si Si “ he says. I’m chuffed and the little cortado….and it was little …was lovely. Right I though, just visit the little girls room and I’m off. He’d locked the doors!!! I knocked…No answer!!!He shut me out!!! And here is me thinking this is an Inn of the Templars!!!!
Right, in 1000 and something we conquered Jerusalem…as you do….so of course lots of pilgrims wanted to go visit. Were they mad? I thought Santiago was tough enough but Jerusalem?? Anyhow, the poor old pilgrims kept getting attacked by bandits so some important church man decided to form a group of soldiers, Knights that would protect us poor pelegrinos from the bandits….They got so important these Knights Templar with their white smocks with bright red crosses on them that everybody gave money to the order. They even formed their own bank!!!…and became a continental corporation… How about that.
But Mr Templar from the bar shut me out. That wasn’t Christian.!!
Anyhow, these Knights Templar lasted until 1312 when the last one was killed on Friday 13th!!! How about that.
I trudge on..It was funny because I was totally alone. I couldn’t see another pilgrim behind me or in front of me in the distance….for 3 hours!!
By the way, I had to wee in the field but there was nobody around and you walk quicker afterwards. ? The next bar was so clean and lovely and I got a lovely stamp on my Pelegrinos passport or Credentiale. The funny thing was that the hotel attached to it was across the road and built so low, the roof was covered in grass so it was disguised apart from the windows and chimneys that appeared. I had a lovely coffee, my third now!!! And a ‘Palmier.’ For my mum who loved them. ?
Trudge trudge…into another industrial area when out of the blue loomed this really posh hotel. I’m so thrilled, bath, bidet , loo and shower…huge bed and lots of plugs to charge things!! Sahagun…I love it here.